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What defines a red wine destined for warmer weather consumption?
The impact of higher temperatures upon the body by all wines—especially reds, as these aren’t subjected to as low a range of service temperatures as all other wine types—bears scrutiny.
At any time of year, wines possessing a lighter body best reflect comparable menu choices. Higher acid levels, whether real or merely perceived, offer a refreshing lift to the palate as do red wines that take well to a chill—so no tannic monsters as these textural elements are intensified by lower temperatures. Issues of alcohol and sugar level are debatable and of lesser consequence than acidity, tannins, and overall body.So, what to choose?
Scott Thomas, wine director of Denver’s Restaurant Olivia, appreciates the freshness of Bava winery’s Libera brand Barbera d’Asti, “Barbera has a lightness and flavor profile that can be enjoyed without food, but because our menu is pasta-focused Italian, I consider the Bava’s our most versatile pairing wine with a wide array of dishes, especially anything with tomatoes, able to appease a broad spectrum of palates.”
Olivia’s menu relies on locally sourced produce, so it shifts to lighter dishes in summer. However, Thomas’ guests easily consume three times more red than white wine, necessitating it showcase summer reds and unique varietals such as COS’s Frappato from Sicily and Alto Adige’s Schiava from Cantina Kurtatsch. “These are both very low in tannin, relatively high in acidity, and exude soft red fruits—two of Italy’s lightest styles of wine, which pair amazingly well with tomato and eggplant-inspired dishes, while offering a viable alternative to Pinot Noir,” says Thomas.
That said, Wine Director Kristen Goceljak of New York City’s Saga Hospitality Group picked Dr. Heger’s Tuniberg from a blind tasting of 10 Pinot Noirs of all styles for a targeted price point. “Three of us agreed that this was the best bang for the buck,” she says. “The price/quality ratio has overdelivered first with the 2017 and now into the 2018.”
Goceljak says she alters her wine-by-the-glass program to account for the summer seasonal change, but the Tuniberg is a year-round placement due to “its primary fruit, lower alcohol, and softer tannins, which allow it to take a bit of chill. People are eating lighter, more vegetable-laden food now and so want lighter wines.”
On the other side of Lower Manhattan, Terroir’s General & Manager Paul Grieco extols Trollinger, “A pop music-inspired wine—light, bright, soft acidity—with the cloud cover of goth—dark, sweet, stinky earth. I am getting excited just writing these words…you are a kinky grape, and I love it!”
An expression he often carries is created by Rainer Schnaitmann, proprietor since the 1997 vintage of his eponymous winery outside Stuttgart, Germany. “We hadn’t realized early enough what great work we’d done until winning the 2007 Deutscher Rotwein Preis for the Trollinger Alte Reben,” said Schnaitmann, who notes the grape is capable of very high yields. “Clocking in normally at 10.5—11%, it’s reflective of our region, but when you’ve healthy grapes with exacting fermentation, the results are excellent.”
Better known as one of his country’s top red winemakers, notably focused upon Pinot Noir, Schnaitmann thinks nearly as highly of his native Trollinger, saying that “it’s a serious, attractive wine for early consumption.” And at a far more affordable price than the French interloper.
No list of summer reds would be complete without a mention of Gamay. Normally associated with Beaujolais, France, great bottles are also made with consistency and flair here in the States. One with style and structure is from a producer in an outlying area for reds, Ontario’s Cave Spring Vineyard. “We’ve been growing Gamay for 30+ years,” said Winemaker/Viticulturalist Gabe Demarco, noting he’s been working with it for 13 years. “Not every red wine has to be big and bold, and Gamay’s softer tannins doesn’t mean it’s inferior.
“We need to educate the consumer that ‘restrained can be great,’” he continues. “When you taste Gamay from a specific terroir (such as CSV’s limestone-infused Beamsville Bench), it expresses that terroir. Ours has Gamay’s requisite soft tannins, generally fruity profile, and focused acidity, but it also sports a ripe core and an overall dynamic palate.”
Mentioned Wines
Bava Barbera d’Asti Libera 2020 Piemonte Italy (Broadbent Selections) $22
Typical in its flavors of cherry jam, black pepper, and sweet tomato, here its tannins are gentler than many with a hint of limestone-founded minerality on the finish.
A. A. Badenhorst Cinsault Ramnasgras 2018 Swartland South Africa (Broadbent Selections) $61
Brisk acidity and strongly structured with a firm mineral and deep fruit core, this is serious Cinsault!
Cave Spring Gamay 2021 Beamsville Bench Canada (HB Wine Merchants) $18
This is a Gamay of aromatic finesse, structural balance, and typical soft tannins without sacrificing its unique band of flavors.
Dr. Heger Pinot Noir Tuniberg 2018 Baden Germany (Schatzi Wine Imports) $27
Amongst Joachim Heger’s many accomplishments is this affordable regional Pinot Noir.
Rainer Schnaitmann Trollinger Alte Reben 2022 Remstal Germany (The German Wine
Collection) $34
Enough soft tannins coupled with moderate acidity and a bit of ripe mulberry character ensure a refreshing red.
Grassl Zweigelt 2022 Carnuntum Austria (Schatzi Wine Imports) $21
Austrian Zweigelt is garnering geek interest when fashioned by conscientious producers such as the Grassl family.
All prices SRP.
Since 1986, David Furer has served in the on- and off-premise trenches in his native U.S. and former adoptive homes of Great Britain and Germany; directed & hosted international wine business conferences in Europe, Asia, and online concerned with its future and climate change; and contributed to wines & spirits media outlets in the U.S. and Great Britain. He also provides marketing & communications expertise to organizations throughout the world from his New York home while somehow finding time to host the consumer-facing podcast Drinking on the Edge. You can reach him at rerufd@gmail.com.
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