To say that agave-based spirits are “having a moment” is an understatement. Where tequila was once relegated to college parties and shooters, it has opened the door to the agave category at large, which has become one of the fastest growing spirits segments there is. Today, tequila and mezcal are fixtures on almost every bar menu, and more agave-based distillates—raicilla, bacanora, and the agave-adjacent sotol—are poised to capture the interest of the savvy drinker.
Tequila & Mezcal Lead the Agave Category
What we now think of and label as “mezcal” is, and always has been, a vast category whose distillates are linked by one common factor: the agave from which they are distilled. Indeed, the word "mezcal" is derived from two Nahuátl words, metl and ixcalli, which combine to mean “cooked agave.” And, while agave, much like wheat and other spirit bases, lends a specific profile to the end product, that is where the similarities end as each distillate takes on its own character based on the region in which they are grown and the agave species from which they are distilled. These regional differentiations are so essential to the character and the soul of each agave distillate that, more and more, the term “terroir” is being used to describe them in the same way that it is applied to wine.
Today’s mezcal is the product of a regulation passed in 1997, which states that to be legally labelled “mezcal” on the bottle, the spirit must be made of 100% agave from a group of specified regions; Oaxaca produces the majority of the mezcal sold internationally. Certification guarantees that the mezcal comes from these regions and adheres to official production standards. While the agave species Espadín is one of the more familiar, many brands have started exploring the nuances of other species in the designated regions. In the early 2000s, Del Maguey mezcal brought the spirit into the spotlight, offering single village expressions from ten agave species. Mezcal Vago also distills different species and even labels the bottles with the specific mezcalero who produced the bottling. Further, each of these mezcaleros has his own distinctive distilling techniques—copper stills, clay pots—and water sources. All of this affects what we smell and taste in each bottle.
For decades, the only spirit from south of the border that most people were really familiar with was tequila. As we now know, it’s only the tip of the agave iceberg, being sourced from just one agave species, Blue Weber, and grown only in the state of Jalisco. While a large number of tequila brands are produced industrially, many producers are distinguishing themselves by using more traditional techniques and focusing on specialization, much like the artisan mezcals available.
Since its inception in 2008, Tequila Ocho has produced single estate, vintage tequilas that have “a hyper-focus on terroir and its impact on the agave,” explains Chris Simmons, national agave ambassador for Tequila Ocho and Mezcal Vago. Each bottle specifies the field the agave was sourced from and year it was made, which means that “the consumer has the unique opportunity to taste differences in terroir and the earth's impact on the final product,” adds Simmons.
Climate, topography, and soil—the “terroir” of the specific growing region—uniquely affects the personality of each agave distillate and makes the discovery of lesser-known styles intriguing. Modern bartender and educator ms. franky marshall observes, “Spirits from Mexico in general are trending right now. Partially due to the continued rise in popularity of tequila and mezcal. I think people are curious to explore what else is new, exciting, and different coming from the country.” Likewise, she notes that bartenders are excited to use these agave spirits because of “the smaller production, the stories behind the spirits, the history, and unique flavor profiles. These are still quite niche, depending on the market, so it’s a chance to introduce guests and consumers to something new and unexpected.”
What is Raicilla?
At Cat Bite Club in Singapore, operating partner Gabriel Lowe likes to introduce his guests to what’s new and different, “We pride ourselves in not just carrying what people like now,” he says, “but also what we think they will like and find interesting if given the chance to try. Raicilla is an amazing and unique spirit that captures parts of the agave flavor profile that tequila and mezcal do not.”
Raicilla, which for all intents and purposes is mezcal made in Jalisco, shares certain characteristics with tequila, being grown in the same Mexican state. But where tequila can only be made from Blue Weber agave, raicilla can choose from five different species of the plant. Thus, not only does the chosen agave variety create nuances in flavor, but this same agave gains further unique characteristics due to the locale in which it is grown. Whether it’s nearer the coast or further inland, the distillate will be affected by the climate and fauna of the region. Lowe finds that it possesses more “tropical fruit and earthy minerality.” He feels that these characteristics make it a natural fit in classic agave drinks like the paloma and the margarita, as well as a more adventurous base for something like a martini.
What is Bacanora?
Rodrigo Bojorquez Bours, founder of Kilinga Bacanora, finds that his agave spirit is equally at home in cocktails. “In terms of agave spirits, I consider bacanora to be the crown jewel of them all because it’s so expressive and unique,” he says. “This comes from the soil and the extreme climate conditions of Sonora, that are unlike any other region in Mexico.”
Like all agave distillates, bacanora is a local spirit, grown at a high elevation in the arid desert of Sonora. This climate, the minerals in the soil, and the water or lack thereof all influence the wild agave that grows there and has adapted to this harsh climate. Further, bacanora has never been industrially produced. Because it was banned in 1915 thanks to Sonora’s straight-laced governor and only legalized again in 1992, the spirit continues to be produced on a small scale with agave harvested by hand and distillation methods varying according to the inspiration of the distiller. Kilinga uses underground, mesquite wood-fired ovens lined with local clay and volcanic rocks.
What is Sotol?
Sotol, made in the Mexican state of Chihuahua, is a bit of an odd man out in the world of agave spirits because it isn’t actually an agave spirit at all. At one time, plants from the Dasylirion genus from which sotol is distilled were thought to be a type of agave. However, in 2009, scientists discovered enough genetic differentiation to reclassify Dasylirion, also called desert spoon, into a separate subfamily. Interestingly, while agave only blooms once, Dasylirion continues flowering throughout its life cycle, making for a more sustainable plant. There are seven Dasylirion varietals that may be used for sotol, but they must be grown wild.
Comparing Agave Spirits
Viamundi Spirits, which also produces mezcal, has released bottlings of both raicilla and sotol because of the continued curiosity about agave spirits. Co-Founders David Weissman and Adam Castelsky, have noticed that “the love for tequila opened people’s palates to mezcal once they read about it in the media, and now the love for tequila and mezcal is doing the same for these other craft spirits, raicilla and sotol.”
Weissman’s and Castelsky’s passion about these products is reflected in their respect for the spirits’ shared histories. Much like bacanora, “Raicilla and sotol represent very important cultural moments in Mexican history. The stories from the families of raicilla and sotol producers are unique to their spirits, and you would literally never be able to find similar stories in the world of tequila because it does not have the history that these other spirits do….As evidenced by our distillers spanning multiple generations, the illegalization did not deter people from continuing their cultural traditions and only recently have they turned their attention towards bringing these traditions to the outside world.”
Like bacanora, both raicilla and sotol also have a sort of outlaw mystique. Both were banned in the early 1900s and have only started to regroup (raicilla was legalized in the 1990s, and sotol now has a regulatory council). Consequently, they too employ a traditional, small batch approach to their production.
One of the ways Viamundi is positioning their raicilla and sotol is to make them affordable for bars. “Bartenders are always ahead of the consumer and creating trends,” note Weissman and Castelsky. “To encourage this enthusiasm and curiosity in the industry, the brand has purposely priced their bottles to ensure they can be utilized on a cocktail list. As the founders note, “Cocktail lists are a great way for new categories of spirits to grow in popularity. Consumers go to their favorite, respected cocktail bars, find a new drink with a new product they may never have heard of before, and get educated about that product from the bartenders they trust.”
Viamundi’s outlook is one worth noting. All newly-released spirits have a sort of learning curve, whether it’s because they are an unknown commodity to the consumer/bartender or because their flavor profiles are different and challenging. Luckily, there is a synergy within the agave category that binds all of the spirits together. Just as tequila was the bridge to people appreciating mezcal, both of these spirits will open the door to bacanora, raicilla, and sotol.
As Simmons says, “This large category is diverse, with many complicated and nuanced flavors to be found. I believe the interest in agave spirits will continue to rise, giving the opportunity for small producers who are creating spirits via traditional methods the opportunity to bring their products to market.”
And since there is no sign of slowing in the agave marketplace, it would seem we are on the precipice of discovery where each new brand, and sometimes, each new batch, offers the experience of a specific moment in time and a specific sense of place, captured in liquid.
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