For bar patrons, knowing what cocktail to choose can leave them frustrated. One of the tried-and-true stalwarts is the margarita, whose popularity has remained a constant. But, as cocktails have evolved in the past 20 years, tequila has become more than just the base of a margarita and has been strongly integrated into many bar programs.
Indeed, primarily tequila-based bars have become a fixture in many cities. And, as guests become more curious about and interested in their drinks, bartenders have found ways to rethink tequila as an often-unexpected cocktail ingredient in their arsenal. “As with any spirit, there is the need to invent new ways to present it, accent it, or reinvent it,” sums up Owner/Partner Jared Meisler of The Roger Room in Los Angeles.
In Santa Barbara, a beachside community where the margarita is naturally at home, Bar Lead Ben Cogdon of La Paloma Cafe thinks that education about agave spirits “has contributed to their rise in popularity and relevance in the cocktail world.” He mentions that a powerful influence in tequila’s evolution is the emerging interest in additive-free, 100% Blue Weber agave-based tequilas. Many larger and celebrity-driven brands use artificial dyes and sweeteners in their production process. The growing availability of these less augmented spirits “gives guests a sense of security, elevates their appreciation for the product, and makes bartenders want to talk about it and support ethical producers.”
The emergence of numerous artisan producers, whose products eschew dyes and flavorings, also offers unique flavor profiles based on both a commitment to time-honored, non-mechanized production techniques, as well as an emphasis on terroir. These brands are not only produced in small batches, which gives them an air of rarity, but they celebrate both the skill of the producer and the distinct region from which they come. They also give bars the opportunity to keep tequila feeling new by introducing more iterations, each offering a distinctive flavor profile that can change from year to year and even batch to batch.
In considering tequila’s staying power, it’s important to consider mezcal. While tequila falls within the mezcal category, mezcal is not a type of tequila. Both use 100% Blue Weber agave, and artisan mezcal producers offer unique terroir-based profiles, much like small batch tequilas. Where mezcal differs is in the cooking technique. While tequila piñas are steamed, mezcal piñas are roasted in pits over wood fires, which results in the smoky quality so often associated with mezcal. Still, the shared characteristics of tequila and mezcal make them natural bedfellows with mezcal’s smokiness contributing a nuance that takes cocktails beyond the familiar tequila profile.
However, the way that the mezcal is used must be taken into consideration. Meisler gives as example of how they use it at The Roger Room saying, “Overall mezcal is more robust than tequila and can be a lot for some people. With our cocktail, El Gordo, the base is tequila, and we add a splash of mezcal. Even people that say they don’t like mezcal love this drink. Using a small amount of mezcal and mixing with tequila softens the smoke, allowing folks to enjoy the subtle sweet and earthy flavors.”
Other bartenders go beyond the “splash,” often combining mezcal and tequila in equal parts. Cogdon frequently turns to a 50/50 margarita, particularly for people “who may be timid about the ‘smoky’ flavors of mezcal”. His version uses half mezcal and half spicy tequila along with passionfruit. He also turns to the Oaxacan Old Fashioned, a modern classic of half-and-half mezcal to tequila with bitters and agave syrup. This twist on the traditional whiskey-based drink highlights how the “intricate flavors of the agave [and] the pungent, roasted flavors of the mezcal, softened by the rich, creamy flavors of the reposado [tequila] blend beautifully together in this cocktail and create a well-rounded, boozy yet smooth, comforting sipper.”
In fact, the Old Fashioned isn’t the only classic Cogdon has riffed on. His Oaxacan In A Winter Wonderland starts with a base of the Espresso Martini, a perennial favorite that has had a renaissance in recent years. His version combines the essential espresso with crème de cacao, orange blossom water, tequila, and a half ounce of mezcal “to add warmth and complement the chocolate and orange."
In a similar vein, at KABIN in New York, Owner Alex Tangen has been “revisiting tequila classics that often fly under the radar.” One of these is the Tequila Daisy, a combination of spirit, citrus, syrup or liqueur, topped with soda water, that introduces guests to the cocktail that birthed the margarita. Another example is the Rosita, essentially a tequila-based negroni, which brings the tequila to the fore. Here, tequila subs for gin, and the standard sweet vermouth is split half-and-half with dry vermouth. The familiar Campari remains. The result is, like the Oaxaca Old Fashioned, a spirit-forward drink that introduces patrons to the way tequila can be the star in a cocktail rather than blending with the very basic and gentle margarita’s citrus and sweetener.
In every case, whether using mezcal and tequila, tequila with unique mixers, or tequila and another spirit, the keyword here is “complement.”
Due to its Nordic influences, KABIN might seem an unlikely place to find tequila. However, the team has found that tequila’s naturally vegetal and herbal notes work seamlessly with the Nordic spirit aquavit, as well as many Nordic staples like dill, lingonberries, and cloudberries. “Using these ingredients allows us to reimagine tequila in a Nordic context,” says Tangen, “creating flavors that feel both unexpected and harmonious.” This is exactly the sort of reinvention that invigorates the tequila category and keeps it evolving.
Aquavit, distilled from either grain or potatoes, gets its characteristic flavor from herbs like caraway and dill. In fact, one or both of these herbs must be included by law to be called aquavit. Tangen notes that the success of these two seemingly disparate spirits lies in aquavit’s “botanical background [coupled] with tequila’s bright, earthy profile—much like how gin and tequila can work together.” This is particularly true in the bar’s Kolio cocktail, while another, the Nordic Lights, employs a dill-infused aquavit and a parsley soda. The combination of flavors sings because “fresh herbs and tequila have a natural synergy,” says Tangen.
KABIN’s Skravla is another spot-on illustration of how tequila pairs with herbs. Taking us through the drink’s creation, Tangen explains, “We layer flavor through thoughtful contrasts. The pasilla chile brings a smoky depth, while the gentian adds an earthy, slightly bitter note that grounds and lengthens the drink. Celery introduces a crisp, bright, vegetal quality that lifts those deeper flavors. We used a reposado tequila that provides vanilla notes that ties together all the smoky, refreshing, earthy and herbaceous flavors.”
Once considered little more than a party drink, tequila has emerged as a spirit with almost infinite possibilities. Bartenders have embraced this malleability, elevating the agave spirit’s role in the spirits world. Whether combining it with another spirit like mezcal or aquavit, reinventing it in a classic cocktail, or pairing it with other herbal notes, tequila is upping the cocktail game.
Meisner sums it up by saying, “Tequila is full of flavor. Flavors can range, but it’s never boring. It mixes well with countless ingredients but doesn’t disappear.”
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